

By the French Revolution of 1789 fashion changes developing since 1775 took
effect. The new female hair fashion was to wear a wig of arranged curling coils
on top of the head letting the natural hair fall loosely down the nape of the
neck.
As the 18
th century came to a close, all things Roman were in
fashion with cropped simple hairstyles. This was soon replaced by a vogue for
all styles Greek and the simplicity of freshly washed hair copied from Greek
vases was thought attractive.
Women in the 19
th century liked to be thought of as fragile
ladies. They compared themselves to delicate flowers and emphasised their
delicacy and femininity. They aimed always to look pale and interesting.
Paleness could be induced by drinking vinegar and avoiding fresh air. Sometimes
ladies discreetly used a little rouge on the cheeks, but make-up was frowned
upon in general especially during the 1870s when social etiquette became more
rigid.
Actresses however were allowed to use make up and famous beauties such as
Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry famous beauties of the 1880s could be
powdered. Most cosmetic products available were still either chemically dubious,
or found in the kitchen amid food colourings, berries and beetroot.
A pale skin was a mark of gentility. It meant that a lady could afford to not
work outdoors getting suntanned which was then considered vulgar and coarse.
Continuous work in sun and harsh weather coarsened the skin then, as it does
now. Parasols were de rigueur and used to protect the complexion. Rooms were
shuttered with dark heavy velvet curtains to keep out the sun's rays. Some
effort was made keep the décolleté neckline in good condition as it was often
exposed in evening dress. Fine blue lines would be painted on the skin to
increase the appearance of delicate translucent skin showing veins.
During this time it was thought that a woman's crowning glory was her hair.
It was rarely cut, usually only in severe illness. It was also supplemented by
false hair depending on the current fashion.
After 1886, Harriet Hubbard Ayer promoted face creams and various anti-ageing
products. Before that, little that was satisfactory had been available.


It often surprises people to learn that it was the dowagers and matrons of
Edwardian high society who were also the fashion leaders of Edwardian
society.
Many an
Edwardian
society hostess in middle age was in urgent need of the help of
cosmetics and by 1900 face enamelling was once again beginning to be accepted
among society ladies. The Edwardian society hostess's complexion, ravaged by
age, a high carbohydrate diet, spasmodic exercise, combined with living in a
dirty polluted atmosphere was far from radiant. Queen Alexandra flaunted her
make-up and shocked and amused observers. But she epitomized the feminine ideal
of the Naughty Nineties. Ladies were more discreet and despite a gradual
acceptance of make-up in the 1890s, it was still considered 'not nice' to admit
to its use.
Ladies of society liked to preserve the myth of being naturally beautiful. A
Mrs. Henning, who owned a beauty salon in South Molton Street, London, which
later became the House of Cyclax, had a special back door for embarrassed
clients. Heavily veiled, a lady would hurriedly alight from her carriage and
disappear into the discreet entrance.
Initially Mrs. Henning sold creams plus three shades of rouge. Hostesses also
used '
papier poudre' (still available from Avon and at some make up
counters today). 'Papier poudre' came in books of colored paper and pressed
against the cheeks or nose, the leaves of powder removed shine. Burnt
matchsticks were used to darken eyelashes, and geranium and poppy petals stained
the lips.
With such primitive cosmetics as these it was inevitable that those who could
afford it would flock to Helena Rubenstein's salon when she opened in
London.
'She did not have to wait for customers. They came veiled, and no lady
carried money with her. But they were prepared to pay considerable sums.'
The sweet pea colour of the clothes was complemented by the lavender smells
and until 1901 this was the only admissible perfume for hostesses. Lavender was
associated with ladylike qualities. You can read more about perfume developments
of the era in
Perfumes.
In her desire to appear natural many ladies had their hair waved. In 1908
Marcel of France introduced a new form of hair waving called the Marcel wave. At
a stroke hairdressing techniques in Britain were revolutionized. This technique
curled the hair with hot irons in a waved arrangement around the head. As well
as Marcel waving, women also dyed their hair.

By 1906 Charles Nestle invented the permanent wave. An electric
heat machine was attached to the hair pads protecting the head and curled the
hair.
Right - Picture of Charles Nestle using his electric machine to produce a
Nestle waved hairstyle.
Until the 1914 war, hair was always considered a woman’s crowning glory.
Society ladies dressed it with jewels, feathers, elaborate combs, or an aigrette
which was a combination hair ornament made up of all these things.
See hair
and hats of the era here.
By 1909
Selfridges opened in
London's Oxford Street and they openly sold cosmetics. Cosmetics displays were
openly visible to the customers and were no longer hidden under the counter.
Then in 1910 Sergei Diaghilev's Russian ballet became influential in fashion.
Influenced by the styles of the ballet,
Paul Poiret created designs based on
the ballet costumes and these took London by storm. This had a definite
influence on make-up and clothes. Ladies began to favour more exotic brighter
coloured clothes and this was reflected in more vivid make up. Tattooing became
especially popular among society ladies and many a society hostess had lips,
pink blushes and dark eyebrows permanently needled in.